Finished deck, with a few of the strips used to shape the hull on the starboard side. Deck is sanded pretty good. The parts underneath are a false keel that defines the side profile of the ship, crossmembers that define the rough shape of the hull, a stern plate that defines the shape of the stern, and some bolsters at the bow on the false keel that broaden the bow a bit so you have a better surface to form the bow shape.
Getting these side strakes on is HARD. Or rather, doing it WELL is HARD. The port side is better, but you're not supposed to be looking at the port side right now. As far as I can tell, once you have some experience, this goes easier. But, this DOES form the shape of the hull.
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This is the complete (base) port hull. It's white because I coated it with wood putty and sanded it down three times. The starboard side will take more work than this, because there are more, bigger holes and rougher fits. Once the starboard hull matches the port hull, the gunwale pieces will be installed and matched to the hull, and then there are a few places where I'll use the base strakes to fill some gaps or thicken some things up. Then the actual hull will be applied with mahogany strips the same thickness as the base hull strips. Supposedly, having the hull fully shaped will allow the mahogany strakes to be fitted to the hull with proper fit and finish. BUT, the good news is I'll be painting this model anyway, rather than leaving it raw wood and staining it. I've already got a paint kit for 19th Century United States Revenue Service cutters. Although honestly, it's basically the same paint scheme as U.S. warships: black with a white stripe just below the gunwales.
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